In the far north of the Southern Rhône region, Michèle Aubéry-Laurent and her son Maxime François farm the 26 hectares that make up Domaine Gramenon. This is not a famous fine wine region - these wines are classified as humble Côtes-du-Rhône - but they've made their own reputation and demand now far outstrips supply.
All of the Laurent's farming is organic and biodynamic, and many of the vines they work are very old. In the cellar, a skilful, old-fashioned approach aims to preserve as much of the quality of the fruit as possible. Ageing takes place in old oak, with no fining and filtration, and very little (if any) sulphur additions. The wines are gloriously perfumed, pure and full-bodied, and all can age beautifully for many years.
Most of the plots are old vine Grenache, long an under-appreciated grape variety, but now fashionable once again thanks to producers like Gramenon.